Sunday, October 7, 2012

Sant Antoni de Portmany

I enjoy early Mediterranean mornings when the air is cool and the world feels clean. And in the case of a city, has literally been washed by municipal vehicles in the night. Alas, this doesn't last long; as soon the day warms up, it becomes uncomfortably hot, humid or both. And so it was this morning: after I grabbed a simple breakfast of coffee and slice of toast, on the way to the bus stand the humidity started to oppress.

I was ambivalent about visiting Sant Antoni, Eivissa's second largest town. Its West End has a large concentration of joints offering British cuisine, e.g "traditional British breakfast", so you can guess the clientele of the nearby mass tourism resorts. I figured that the clubers of the night before would be sleeping it off and I could see the town, have lunch (of local food) and escape before they woke up and never have to bump into them.

The beach is no great shakes but it is in a protected bay and sees the sunset, as it is on the west of the island.

There were advertisements of sunset excursions to Es Vedra, running everyday, but starting at 1500. I didn't really want to hang around that long. Even less so when "champers" was advertised as supplied. Foiled again in my quest to view Es Vedra.

The fountains in the waterfront promenade are pretty enough and are gathering points for locals and photo opportunities for visitors.

These automats reminded me of the ones in Amsterdam selling snacks like kroketten. The shop it was located in also sold souvenirs such as T-shirts advertising that the wearer had been clubing in Ibiza.

Another local landmark, this one in the middle of a traffic roundabout, is The Egg, to celebrate a local claim that Columbus was born there.

The town's namesake saint has a church in standard Mediterranean white on a back street. Beyond that there are no sights that require a visit.

By this time it was lunch and I was fortunate to find a restaurant serving a Spanish menu of the day. The cool gazpacho was good and just the thing for a warm day. I have always thought of merluza (hake) as the quintessential Spanish fish since it was the first fish I learnt in Spanish lessons. I was served by a serious looking old waiter. For decent cooking, and a dessert of a couple of scoops of ice-cream and a refreshment, it was a good deal at 10€.

In the evening, I elected to go to Eulària again for dinner. This time I had to be mindful of the timetable as the service was only hourly on Sundays. I had a few minutes free before departure and took a walk around this peace pool in a park.

I got there in time to join the evening paseo. On Sant Vicent, the dining street, the establishment I wanted to try was closed on Sundays, and I had just missed early bird hour at the Tex-Mex place that had decent reviews. So I went for an Asian fusion place. The starter of satay was genuine enough, and the main of pork and julienned vegetables with noodles stir fried in oyster sauce was fine, but a bit too salty. I tried their Woktail which contained vodka, Midori and fruit juice. It was tasty and didn't feel alcoholic at all but was potent all the same.

On the way back I saw a merchandise shop selling double CD sets of club compilations for 10€. What the heck, at that price, worth a try. They had hits of past years (not that I would notice). I would have to wait until I got a rental car with a CD player to start booming out club music.

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